Umpheki waseFransi kunye no-restaurateur uPaul Bocuse: zokupheka ezona ndlela, imbali yobomi kunye nembali

Enye yeengcali eziqhelanisiweyo zenkcubeko yekhulu leminyaka nguPaul Bocuse. Nangona ukuba zonke iindlela zakhe zokupheka zilula kakhulu kwaye zifikeleleka kubantu abangabonakaliyo ensimini ekuphekeni, kwaye izitya zihluke ngokuthe ngqo kwiindawo zabo zokudla, konke oku kuqinisekisiwe kukuphezu kwekhitshi ephezulu. Iindlela zokupheka eziphambili zikaPaul Bocuse, i-biography yakhe kunye nomsebenzi wakhe - kwinqaku lethu.

KwiNkosi

UPaul Bocuse ungumpheki kwisizukulwana sesihlanu, uyaqhubeka neshishini lakhe levenkile ukususela kwiintsuku zika-grand-grand-mother, owayengazange abe mnandi kuphela, kodwa naye wayephekwe kakhulu. Intsapho yayinegayi, apho ivula i-tavern phakathi nenkulungwane yeshumi elinesibhozo. Abavakalisi bathanda ukutyelela esi sikhungo, ukutya okunikezelwa kubaphathi bemikhosi, abalimi abaza neenkozo zabo kwisigxile, kubemi beenxa zonke bezondlo, zilula kwaye zingenasiphelo.

I-Tavern kwiminyaka yokuqala yekhulu yaba yindawo yokutyela, eyayizifumana ngokukhawuleza endleleni esuka eParis ukuya eMarseilles. Isakhiwo satshatyalaliswa. Kodwa ishishini lentsapho liye lomelele kangangokuba lakwazi ukuqhubeka kuMlambo waseSaon, apho iidonki zase-Ile-Barba zazihlala zihlala khona. Kwafika ke umnyaka we-1921 - ixesha leenguqu zokuqala. UPaul Bocuse wayengazange azalwe ngoxa umkhulu wakhe wagqiba ekubeni angathengisi kuphela isikhungo, kodwa negama.

IThe Legend

Kwathethwa ukuba utata omdala wakhuthaza le nyathelo ngomona. Ugogo, njengabafazi bonke bentsapho, ubuhle, iindwendwe ezininzi zazama ukumnakekela. Ugogo wayengathandi kakhulu. Ayaziwa ngokuqinisekileyo ukuba isiganeko senzeke kwindawo yokutyela, kodwa isiko sathengiswa kunye negama losapho. Ukuba ubukhosi buphazamisekile, akunakwenzeka ukuba sasingazazi umpheki omhle njengoPaul Bocuse.

Nangona kunjalo, iingcambu zezolimo zathintela kakhulu kwimiphefumlo yale ntsapho, ngoko uGeorge - isizukulwana esilandelayo - ukhethe le ntsimi enye. Wafumana amava akhe okupheka kwiindawo zokutyela ezilungileyo kwiLyon waza wavula yakhe. Wayeyazi kakhulu, kakhulu, kodwa unyana wakhe akazange afunde ngesizathu esithile. Unyule omnye utitshala obalaseleyo wokuhlaziya - uClaude Mare, osisigxina sakhe kulo msebenzi wawungeyona nzulu.

Qeqesho

Isitofu kunye nokupheka okwenene, uMar akavumanga umfundi ngokukhawuleza. Ekuqaleni wathenga ukutya ixesha elide kwaye wajonga ngokucophelela ukutsha. Kamva yaba yinto ehlukileyo yomsebenzi owawukhokelwa nguPaul Bocuse: izitya zakhe zihlala zilungiswe kwizithako ezintsha. Imfazwe yaqala, isiqalo sokuqala sikholoji sazibhalisa njengesivolontiya saza sahamba phambili. Ngexesha lokulwa kwe-Alsace kwakulimala kakhulu. Walwa kakuhle, wamkela umnqamlezo ngo-1944 "wenkonzo yempi," kwaye ngo-1945 wayelindele iParade eParade eyaziwayo .

Kwafuneka nditshintshe umsebenzi wam xa ndaya ekhaya. Utitshala kaPawulos wayengowona udumo kakhulu uFernand Point, kodwa apha wayepheka izitya kangangoko kunokuba wayekhathalele umyezo, wahlamba izitya, wahlamba impahla, wayibeka kwaye wayilisa. Nangona kunjalo, amanye amaphuzu awawathabatha kwiPoint. Kwaye ngoku iqoqo legolide leefestile uPaul Bocuse liyabonakala ngokubonakala kweentsuku ezincinci kunye neziqhamo zokukhanya.

Buyela

Ukufikelela kwiminyaka emashumi mathathu anesihlanu ubuncwane bezobugcisa bezolimo bafumana amava. Kodwa ke, xa ebuyela kwivenkile yokutyela yakhe, waqulunqa ishishini kangangokuba unyaka kamva iziko lafumana inkwenkwezi yaseMarolina. Ngowe-1965, iinqwelo zeMirin zibe zintathu. Kwakukuphakama kozuko. Imicimbi yezemali sele ifumene kakhulu kangangokuthi uPaul Bocuse wathenga ivenkile ye-grandfather kunye negama losapho. Ngoku kukho ihholo leholo, apho abantu baphathwa njengamaxesha ookhokho bentsapho: ukutya kulula, kodwa kuyamnandi.

UPaul Bocuse wayevuyile ukubuyisela igama lentsapho kwishishini, kuba lingaphezu kwegama elidumile. Le ngongoma yento ebizwa ngokuba ngumfezeko, uhlobo lokuphelela. Ngokuqhelekileyo, ivenkile yokudlela, eyabuyisela igama, kwaye iyanconywa ngeenkwenkwezi zaseMirinas, yenzelwe abantu abaphumelele kakhulu, abacebileyo kwaye baninzi abadumileyo ukuba uPoul Bocuse aqokelele. Ukuphononongwa kwezidlo ezivela kwimveliso yendawo ehlambulukileyo kunye neyona nto leyo, leyo, engaphezulu, ayilahlekelwa yintyatyambo yendalo ngexesha lokupheka, ibe nehlabathi lehlabathi.

Ikhishi elitsha

Ngomnyaka we-1975, inkosi yanikezwa iMyalelo weLegion of Respect, kwaye ukubonga kwakhe kwakunzima kangangokuba i-newpiece ebonakalayo. UPaul Bocuse, iindlela zokupheka ezilula nje ngokuba ziyingqondi, zikholisa ihlabathi ngesobho se- truffles ezimnyama, ezibizwa ngokuba ngumongameli waseFransi.

Ngokuqinisekileyo kunzima ukulula! Ukuba ikhadi elivakatyelayo le-cuisine ephezulu kaPaul Bocuse, i-truffles isobho iqukethe ama-truffle amnyama, iinkukhu ze-inkukhu, isilimo esidliwayo esinamagatsha anamanzi kunye ne-karoti, iikhotshi zamakhowe amakhowe, i-vermouth emhlophe kunye ne-foie gras. Kwaye ngenxa yesizathu esithile, inkukhu ye-bouillon cubes ... Inikwe ikomityi yegama lokukhankanya ngegama eligqithisileyo, elizaliswe ngumhluzi ngaphambi kokuya ehovini. Akukho nto kwi- Elysee Palace uPaul Bocuse wayiphatha umongameli!

Imisebenzi yoluntu kunye noluntu

Akukho udumo olungaphantsi kwesinye iresiphi, enye eyaqulunqwa nguBroosh, kwaye abalandeli bakhe baphucula kuyo yonke indlela. Kanye nezinye izitya ezidumileyo zesiFrentshi , zihluke kakhulu kwi-classical kunye ne-recipe ye-brioche test by Paul Bocuse. Kwaye ngo-1987, umpheki wanikwa igosa legosa kwi-Honorary Legion kwaye waphatha omnye umongameli. Ngexesha elifanayo, iqela le "Golden Bokyuz" lisiwe, umvuzo waloo mkhangeli ngoku uthetha okufanayo "no-Oscar" yomculi.

Ubomi benkosi kusukela ngonyaka ukuya kwinto yaba yinto engakumbi. Wavula iivenkile, wabhala iincwadi, wathatha inxaxheba kwimiboniso nakwiiprogram zeTV, kwanokuba iCulinary Institute yenziwe. Ukuhamba kuthatha indawo eqhubekayo. Ngo-2003 watyelela eMoscow, apho wazisa khona uphawu lukaPaul Bocuse. Umntu unokusebenza kwaye ujabule.

Izibhengezo

UPaul Bocuse uthanda izitsha zekhitshi ezindala, ngakumbi zithanda izitya zetsimbi. Ukhetha isitofu segesi, kodwa ukuba i-oven iso kagesi. Ngokucacileyo, oku kungenxa yokulawulwa okungcono: Ukufudumala kunye nokushisa kulawulwa kwikovini ye-electro ngokuchanekileyo ngokuchanekileyo. UCredo ngexesha lobomi bukaPaul Bocuse akazange atshintshe. Ukusuka entsimini okanye elwandle - ngokukhawuleza etafileni. Zonke ezigqityiweyo. Azikho izitya zakhe ezilungiselelwe ixesha elide okanye ezinzima. Yingakho umdlalo ungaxubeki. Izitya zihanjiswa kuphela ngelamula, izityalo, iviniga kunye nebhotela. Izithako azifakiwe, kodwa zendawo. Imenyu kwindawo yokutyela ihlala ifutshane kakhulu.

Iincwadi zakhe ziguqulelwe kwiilwimi ezininzi. KwisiRashiya kwafika "iindlela zam zokupheka" kunye ne "Bible of French cuisine". UPaul Bocuse awalanda abaya kubacebisa, ukuba ubuncinci baqondwa ngesiRashiya. Abaguquleli kunye nabahloli beempendulo baphendulile emsebenzini wabo, bawubeke ngobumnene, ngokunganaki. Kwiincwadi zakhe, azikho nje kwiindlela ezininzi zokupheka, enye okanye ezinye izithako, kodwa, ngaphezu kwazo zonke, iinombolo ezibonisa inani lemveliso zididekile ngokupheleleyo. UPaul Bocuse akayi kucebisa zakhe iincwadi kwiingcali zaseCrazil ezithintela ngelo xesha egama lakhe. Kwaye akunakwenzeka ukuba ufunde ezi ncwadi kubaqalayo. Yeka impuphu!

Iindlela zokupheka ezininzi, ziguqulelwe ngokupheleleyo

Izitya eziqulunqwe yikosi zizonwabile kwaye zilungiswe ngokukhawuleza, aziqhathananga ziqulethe izithako ezinzima ukuzenza. Isinkwa sephunga (ngokuqinisekileyo, abaninzi banamakhulu omakhulu abenza ngesiRashiya, ngaphandle kwamaqanda aphezukileyo), i-klafuti - i-pie elula kunye namajikijolo, apho kwindlu engaqhelekanga ayifani kwitafile phantse kwimihla ngemihla kwihlobo lehlobo, i-wolfish okanye enye intlanzi ebhaka Kwintlama okanye ekwabiwe ngomgubo, ngaba izitya zingaba semzini kwelizwe lethu? Bamazwe ngamazwe.

Kodwa i-pastry ibhaka isidlo esinjengesiFrentshi. Ngomzekelo okhethekileyo, obekwe ngolu vavanyo, ngokucokisekileyo imiqolo ye-ham, i-veal, i-lerd kunye ne-ngulube ezaliswe ngenyama enobuncwane, ehlanjululwe nge-cognac, enikezwa ngamacube ahlambulukileyo, afakwe ngokufanelekileyo. Kuya kuba mnandi nje ukuzama, kodwa ukupheka. Kufuneka kuqatshelwe ukuba uPaul Bocuse unezidiliya zakhe kwiBejolais eyaziwayo. Ngako oko, ityala kunye neengcogca zihlala zihamba kunye nezobugcisa. Kwaye inxalenye enyanzelekileyo malunga nayo yonke izitya zakhe i-cream kunye nebhotela. Le ngqungquthela kunye nama-mushroom, kunye ne-carp bakate. Iwayini, ukhilimu, ibhotela.

Iipatato ngeqanda

Kodwa ke, indlela uPoot Bocuse ayisondeza ngayo kwi-Russian cuisine! Ininzi izitya zilungiselelwe ezivela kwii-ingredients ezingazange zishiye ikhitshi lethu. I-Omelette kunye namazambane - ivenkile yasemaphandleni yasekuseni kunoma yimuphi umphumo waseRussia, ngaphambi kokugaya, umzekelo. Ukuhlwaya, okunempilo, okunomsoco. Yintoni i-elegance yesiFrentshi? Amazambane aphuhliweyo ngendlela efanayo, amaqanda angabikho kwifriji, kodwa ephuma kwibhaksi okanye ngokukhawuleza kwi-nest inkukhu, i-ngulube i-fat, iyancibilika kwi-pan yocingo. Ngeentyatyambo ziya kuba ne-omelet.

Abagogo kunye noomama kuphela abanalo ityuwa inqatha yehagu kwi-pan frying, ukwenzela ukuba banako ukukhaba amazambane kuyo. Kwaye uPolomon Bokyuz uya kubuyisa iziqhekeza, uthele konke oku kunye namaqanda, ahlanjululwe ngamanzi, awulethe ekulungeni kwaye akhonze ngesonka esimhlophe, esibiwe ebhotela. Mhlawumbi akubona bonke abaseRussia badla isonka kunye namazambane, kodwa ngaphandle koko esi sidlo njengommeli we-French cuisine ephakamileyo kuya kufuneka ukuba sinambitha kwiidolophu nakwiidolophana zethu.