I-Epigraph : Yaye ixabisa kakhulu ukuba ifundeke kangako ... Njengoko inkwenkwe yathetha, ifikelela ekupheleni kwee-alfabeti ... "Amanqaku eKlabhu yasePikkwick" uCharles

Siyazi ukuba unonophelo olufanelekileyo olufunekayo - i-shampoo kunye ne-balm. Namhlanje kuya kuthetha kuphela ngama-shampoos. Incoko iya kuba yinde kwaye ingabi yinto engathandekiyo, kodwa emva kwamanqaku amaninzi uya kukwazi ukuqonda ama-shampoos ngokubunjwa, kwaye ungafundanga izivakalisi zentengiso.

Ukugqithwa kwembali

Kwixesha la mandulo, ukuhlamba ngokubanzi kunye neenwele ngokukhethekileyo, isetyenzisi seqanda kunye nobisi omuncu, odibene nodongwe. Kodwa i-shampoo ethandwa kakhulu yi-shampoo yayikuthi, mhlawumbi, umlotha-iimpahla zokutshabalalisa zaxutywa ngamanzi kwaye zafumana ukuqhuma ngokukhawuleza, ubunzima be-alkaline. Phakathi kwekhulu le-19, ukuveliswa kwemveliso yesepha esinamandla, onokukwazi ukutshatyalaliswa kwezilwanyana zezilwanyana kunye nemvelaphi yemifuno, kwaqala. Le sopu yasemakhaya edumile, esetyenziswanga ngempumelelo kuphela ngabagogo bethu, kodwa nakwabanye abaphila ngexesha. Ndimelene nxamnye nalo - kuba isepha phantsi kwezenzo zamanzi zenza iifom e-insoluble (kunye noonobumba obunzima) ezihlala kwizinwele, zenze iingubo ezimhlophe zize zivale ii-pores ze-scalp (okuvame ukubangela ukuba kungabikho i-alopecia eguquguqukayo).

Kwiminyaka yokuqala yeshumi le-20 leminyaka, ngenxa yeSchwarzkopf, iindlela zokuqala zokuhlamba iinwele zavela. I-Shampoos kwifomu eyaziwayo kuthi sonke savela kwi-laboratory efanayo ye- Schwarzkopf ngo-1933 kwaye yayiyiphupha eliyinqwenela kubo bonke abesifazana abashukumisayo emhlabeni jikelele. Kukho umlandele ngokubhekiselele kuwo ukuba kukho enye yezinto ekutyikityweni kweqhinga lokungahlaseli iJamani kunye ne-USSR yinto enqwenela ukufumana ifom yethu ye-cosmetic imboni yeso sihlandlo (oko kukuthi iFree Factory, enye ekhoyo eMoscow) imimiselo yommangaliso waseJamani we-shampoos. Andizi ukuba liyi nyaniso kangakanani, kodwa nangona kunjalo, eRussia, i- shampoo yokuqala yabonakala kuphela kwiminyaka yama-60 ye-20 yekhulu lama-20. Kwakungekho kuphela ukucoca kwendalo (i-alkyl sulfates), kodwa iyancwina i-glycerin. Nangona kunjalo, nangona kunjalo, i-shampoos "yayinzima" (pH = 7-8), ukuba sinokukuthelekisa kuphela nge- shampoo yangoku yokucoca. Kwiminyaka yama-70 yekhulu lama-20, iProtektri kunye neGamble yenkampani yazisa ngokokuqala ngqa ekubunjweni kweemveliso zokunyamekela (izixhobo eziphathekayo), ezongezela ukunyanzelisa i-shampoos kunye nokukwazi ukuzinya iinwele.

Shampoos zamanje

Okwangoku, i-shampoo ekuhlambulukeni ngokuqhelekileyo sele ibe "isithethe", njengoko inikezela ngokuhamba ngokukhawuleza ngaphandle kokucaphuka kwesikhumba, ubukho beendawo eziphathekayo ezinonwele kwiinwele, ngokuqhelekileyo zidibaniswe neyonyango kunye nomqobo wokukhusela esikhumbeni, ngamanye amaxesha zenza indima yohlobo lwe-aromatherapy, Ndiyabulela kumnandi. Yingakho i-shampoo enye yezinto ezisetyenziswa kakhulu kwizityalo zokuzongamela, apho zifunwa khona iimfuno eziphezulu, ezikulo nqaku, ndiza kuziqwalasela kuphela iimpahla zayo zokuhlamba kunye neenkunkuma, ukuba zixubushe "imbonakalo yemveliso", "umfanekiso" wayo kwintengiso Andinomdla kwiimarike nonke.

Kwisixhobo samhlanje se-cosmetology kubhaliwe ukuba i -shampoo yamanqanaba afanelekileyo kufuneka ibe nayo :

- isiphumo esihle se-detergent (ewe, lo ngumsebenzi wayo oyintloko); Nika i-foam eninzi kwindawo yamanzi naluphi na ubunzima (obaluleke kakhulu kwilizwe lethu elikhulu);

- kuhle ukuhanjiswa ngeenwele (kubalulekile ukusuka kwindawo yokujonga inzuzo, njengenkundla yenkundla kodwa "ingxaki");

- kulula ukuhlamba (le nto ibonakalisa "uqoqosho", ekubeni uninzi lwabantu sele lubekwe iimitha kumanzi, ngaphandle koko, ukuchithwa kwe-shampoo flakes akunakwenzeka ukuhlobisa umntu);

- Musa ukucaphukisa i-scalp (ipropati echaphazelekayo emgangathweni kwimeko yokwanda komntu okhoyo namhlanje);

- ukubonelela ngempembelelo, oko kukuthi, ukudibanisa lula (kakuhle, ndiyakuxubusha nalo, kuba ngombono wam, lo ngumsebenzi weibhalms);

- ukunika iinwele kunye nokubonakala okunempilo (ngokuqinisekileyo, ngokuqinisekileyo ukuba uthetha ukuba umsebenzisi onjalo "ukucoceka");

- ube nepakethe efanelekileyo kunye nembonakalo ekhangayo.

Ngoku kutshanje kwi-shampoos yaqala ukufaka iindidi ezinqambileyo ezinemibala-microsphres ene-additive, eyenza umphumo weebhola okanye iipesele. Ukongeza kwindlela ebonakalayo enomdla, baqinisekisa ukugcinwa kwezidalwa eziphilayo. Nangona kunjalo, ngokungathi i-shampoo yangaphandle yayingabonakali, inyaniso kunye nesibheno sempahla yabathengi bayo ingahlolwa kuphela emva kokusetyenziswa.

Indima yamanzi kwi-shampoo

Ubungakanani bamanzi kwi-shampoo bangafikelela kuma-80%, ngoko ke amanzi kufuneka abe ngowokuqala, ukucoceka kwe-microbiologically (ukuze i-shampoo ingabi "i-hotbed" yeebhaktheriya). Kubalulekile ukuba ayinamanzi anobunzima (isinyithi, i-calcium, i-magnesium), eyanciphisa ukuphosa kwaye idla ngokugqithiseleyo njengento engamnandi. Ukunciphisa lawa macwecwe, yongeza okubizwa ngokuba yi-chelates (ngokuqhelekileyo i-Trilon B).

Namhlanje kuyimfashini kakhulu ukutsho ukuba amanzi ase-shampoos atshintshwe ngamathambo okanye i-decoctions. Andiqinisekanga ukuba oku kunokwenzeka, kuba izicatshulwa zengca ziyindawo engakholwanga kuphela yonyango lwe-dermatitis eyahlukeneyo, kodwa ukukhula kwazo zonke iintlobo ze-microorganisms, phakathi kwazo azikhozona "ezichanekileyo" phakathi kwazo. Kodwa nangona kunjalo ... Sisafuneka sikholwe oko bathethayo kwiivenkile.  

Ukuhlamba impahla

Nangona i-% eninzi yequlatho yamanzi, isiseko sawo nawaphi na i-shampoo yintambo yokuhlamba. Kungenxa yokuba umsebenzi oyintloko wokuhlambalaza i-shampoo ukususa ukungcola komatshini, oko kukuthi - ukuhlamba! Isiseko senkunkuma yokuhlamba kwi-shampoos i-surfactants - izinto eziphezulu.

Iipropati ezingabonakaliyo : 1. Ukunciphisa uxinzelelo lomhlaba phakathi kwamanzi kunye neenxalenye zeoli, ukwenza kube lula ukususa la maqabunga kunye nentlaka; 2. Yenza i-foam (eyayiqhelekileyo ingqalelo-ingakumbi i-foam, ilungele ukuhlanjululwa.) Ngoku le ngxelo iyinyaniso); 3. Yenza ukumiswa kweengqungquthela ezingcolileyo kwi-foam kunye nokukhusela ukulungiswa kokungcola ngokuphindaphindiweyo kwiinwele (oku kubalulekile, ngaphandle kwendlela yokuhlamba siza kuhlutywa uSisyphean abasebenzi); 4. Ukuzinzisa izithako eziseleyo ze-shampoo okanye uzigcine ekupheliseni i-sosoyanii; 5. ukwandisa i-viscosity ye-shampoos; 6. unike iinwele ezintle.

Impembelelo yokuhluthwa yinkonzo ihlinzekwa ngokuyinhloko ngama- actif anionic , iamolekyu equlethe i-hydrophobic inxenye kunye ne-hydrophilic inxenye. Kwisisombululo esinomsoco, iamolekyula iyancipha ukuba yenze i ions ihlawuliswe kakubi. Inxalenye ye-molecule ixutywe ngamanqatha kwaye ivelisa iinqununu zodaka kunye nokufihla kweengqungquthela zenyama. Inxalenye yamanzi ye-molecule ixhomekeke kude neenwele, ezithwala ixabiso elibi (njengoko liyaziwa, iindleko zegama elifanayo ziyancatshiswa), ngenxa yokokuba iinqununu zentlanzi ezinxulumene nabafaki-mafutha ziyanqandwa yizinwele, zaza zachithwa ngamanzi kwaye zisuswa ngamanzi. Ezi zixhobo zihlala zibizwa ngokuba yi- detergents kunye nabafaki-mafutha . Izigulana ziyi-saponifiers yemvelaphi yemvelo, abaqhankqalazi bezinto eziyimveliso. Ngokuqhelekileyo, amaninzi amaninzi asetyenziswa kwi-shampoo eyodwa: i- sodium laureth sulfate (esetyenziswa rhoqo), i-alkyl ether i-sulfate salts (i-lauryls ye-sodium, i-magnesium, i-ammonium encinci), i-laureth i-magnesium sulphate (elula kodwa ebiza kakhulu), i-saktisulfosuccinates (i-actific acidants) I-Acyl peptides (umkhiqizo wokunciphisa iprotheni i-hydrolyzate kunye neoli yekakhukhunathi).

Amacwecwe asebenzayo eCationic nawo asetyenziswa kakhulu. Zineempembelelo ezinobuthakathaka obuthathaka, kodwa "zihanjiswe" kwizinwele ezithwalwe kakubi kunye nokulungiswa kweezinwele: iiproymic cationic, iiprotythi ze-cationic, ii-polysaccharides zityalo.

Ama-actifant amphoteric - kunye kunye nabasebenza kwi-anionic banda ukwanda kokungabi naluphi uhlobo lwe-shampoo formulations, kunye nokudibanisa ne-cationic kwandisa imiphumo emihle ye-silicones kunye nezongezo zentengiso kwizinwele kunye ne-scalp: i-alkyl amidopropyl betaines, i-cocoamphoacetate.

Ukuthetha ngokunyanisekileyo, ukuthetha malunga nabafaki-zicelo bangaba kude kakhulu (kusekho i-ioniki, i-cryptoanin kunye ne-SOPV, ebangela ukuba kudalwe iindlela zokupheka). Ubuqhetseba.

Izixhobo zokuSebenza

I-Mutilators : yenzelwe ukufihla ubunzima bomkhiqizo okanye umbala omhle, ovumela ukuba utshintshe ifom, ukuphucula iimpahla zabathengi. Emva kokungeniswa kwezixhobo zokuzikhethela, i-shampoo iyaba njenge-lotion okanye ubisi kunokuba izitya zendalo (ezifana neemveliso zasemakhaya). Ngokwakheko lweekhemikhali, i-opacifiers i-dispersions yama-polymers.

Idayi : zenzelwa ukumbumba iimvulo ezingafunekiyo. Zifanele zikhuseleke kubathengi, zikhuselekanga kwaye zingonakali phantsi kweentlobo ezahlukeneyo zempembelelo (ukufudumeza, ukuqhwala, njl njl.). Kwamazwe amaninzi, ukusetyenziswa kwebalabala kulawulwa. Kuphela, kukho iindlela ezininzi zokulawula - iMelika, iYurophu kunye neJapan. Abavelisi baseRashiya banamathela kumgaqo we-Europe weedayi. Kwaye ngokubanzi - umxholo we-sooo awulula kwaye unzima kakhulu, ngenxa yento - yonke into.

Iphunga : ngaphezu kwelokuba "lihlobisa" loo mveliso, eyenza ilinge kumthengi, igrume, kubandakanya, ifihle iphunga lezinto ezibonakalayo. Ngoko -cinga ngako. Ukuba iphunga linamandla kakhulu, ngaba oku kuthetha ukuba izinto ezibonakalayo azikho mgangatho ophezulu ... Iqhumiso kufuneka ihambelane nazo zonke izigcawu ze-shampoo kwaye zingonakali ngexesha (kufuneka ligcinwe ubuncinane kwiinyanga ezi-3). Isicwangciso sokunikela iphunga elimnandi kwi-shampoo lincinci kwaye, ngelishwa, kunye nezigulane kunye nemibala ingaba imbangela ebalulekileyo yeempendulo zokumelana ne-shampoo. Kukho umyalelo owodwa we-Yurophu ochaza iingu-26 eziphambili ezingenako ukungena kwiqhumiso, kodwa ngenxa yezizathu zokuphepha kufuneka ziboniswe kwilebula, ngakumbi ukuba inani labo lidlula ixabiso elivumelekileyo.

IziHlomelo eziSebenzayo

Izindondolozo zizinto ezongeziweyo kwiimpawu zokunqanda ukukhula okanye ukutshatyalaliswa kwama-microorganisms, kuba izimonyo ziphakathi ezihle kakhulu zokukhula nokuveliswa kwezilwanyana ezincinci. Oku kuyingozi kakhulu, kuba ii-microorganisms azigcini nje ngokugqithiseleyo umgangatho weemveliso, kodwa zikhupha iifolox (ezenzakaliswa zityhefu), ezinokunyusa kakhulu ukuphuhliswa kweempembelelo nokuvuvukala. Ngoko, ukuhlanzeka kwe-microbiological akuxhomekeke kuphela kwimpahla yabathengi, kodwa nangokusebenza kwayo kwaye, ndiza kuthetha, ukhuseleko. Ukukhethwa komlondolozo owenziwa ngabanye kwimveliso nganye. Lo msebenzi unzima kakhulu, kuba kuyimfuneko ukuqwalasela: ukusebenza ngempumelelo kwiindawo ezincinci; Ukuhambelana nokulondolozwa kwazo zonke izithako ze-shampoo; Utyhefu; Uzinzo lokushisa; Ukuzinza phezu kobubanzi obubanzi bepH.

Izilondolozo eziphambili ezisetyenzisiweyo ziyi-benzoic acid derivatives, i-parabens ehlukeneyo, i-methylchloroisothiazolinone kunye ne-methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, propylene glycol, i-methylparaben, i-propylparaben, i-phenoxyethanol, i-methylparaben, i-ethylparaben, i-propylparaben, i-butylparaben kunye nezinto ezifana.

Abacebisi (i-viscosity regulators): yongeza kwi-shampoos ukuze unike ukulungelelaniswa okufunayo. Iipolymy Polyvinylpyrrolidone kunye nama-copolymers acrylates aqhelekileyo asetyenziswa njengabaxhasi. I-glycerol ester yamacids e-fatty kunye ne-polysaccharides yemvelaphi yemifuno ingaba njengabaqashi.

Izixazululo: Ezi zinto zizodwa ezizandisa ukwenziwa kwezinto ezinokuzulunganiswa. Uninzi lwamaxesha amaninzi, iimveliso ze-oxyethylated ezahlukeneyo zisetyenzisiweyo. Izixazululi zihlala zisetyenziselwa ukutshabalalisa iphunga elimnandi. Ezinye izongezo phambi kwe-shampoo nazo ziyachithwa kwi-solubilisation (umzekelo, i-jojoba ioli, i-gciwane yengqolowa, iivithamini ezinomninzi).

Abalawuli be-PH: ukuthambisa, ngokuqhelekileyo kuthi sisiqulatho se-hydrogen, songeza i-acids ezinobumba (i-citric, lactic, orthophosphoric) okanye i-alkali (i-hydrodium i-hydroxy, i-mono- okanye i-triethanolamine). Ixabiso le-pH kwi-shampoo libaluleke ngokubalulekileyo, kuba kufuneka libe njengokuqinisekisa ukusebenza kwazo zonke izixhobo ezenza ukwakheka kwayo. Ngokuqhelekileyo, kukho uluvo lokuba yi-pH enquma ukulingana kwesikhumba xa usebenzisa i-shampoo. Kodwa iidermatologists ziqwalasela le nkcazo kunokuba ziphikisana, njengabaphandi abaninzi bagxininisa ukuba ulusu lunezixhobo eziphathekayo (ukukwazi ukujonga ngamandla ukuguqulwa kwe-pH, oko kukuthi, ukuzinzisa i-pH). Into eyona nto ingakhokelela ekubuthatheni kwenkqubo ye-tampon ihlambulukile ekuhlambulukeni kwe-shampoo kwizinwele kunye nesikhumba, kodwa ke kungekhona nje kuphela abalawuli be-pH kwaye akukho nto iya kusebenza ngokucaphukisa.

Izithako ezongezelelweyo

Yenzelwe uku : ukususwa kombane wamanzi (emva kokuba ndidibene nekota - "ukunciphisa ukusasazeka kweenwele"); Ukukhupha iindawo ezinobungozi (i-smoosity porosity); Nciphisa ukhululo lokudibanisa iinwele (zombini imanzi kwaye yomile); Ukunika ubumnandi kunye neenwele eziluhlaza; Ukukhuselwa komzimba; Ukuthungula nokunyusa iinwele; Ukwandisa ubuninzi beenwele.

Inkqubo yesenzo se-air conditioners: eqinisweni, umphumo we-banal magnetization ye "+" "i-molecule" ehlawulisiweyo ye-air conditioners "." Nangona kunjalo, ukongeza kumakethi, kulo mzekelo, kukho kwakhona ukubophelwa kwee-molecule ze-conditioner ukuya kwikeratin yeenwele. Le ndawo ibizwa ngokuba yi-substantivity, ngenxa yoko izigulisi azigcini nje kwiindawo zeebhokhwe, kodwa zigcina isongezo esibalulekileyo. Kukholelwa ukuba indawo ezonakalisiweyo zeenwele zinokuhlawulwa okukhulu, oku kuthetha ukuba ngaphezulu "+" ukuhlawulwa (i-cationic) iincinci zixhomekeke kuyo, oko kukuthi, umphumo wokuziqhenyusa uphuculo. Enyanisweni, oku kuyenyani ukuba amanqaku amaninzi afakwe "njengononophelo olusisiseko."

Phakathi kweenzuzo ezininzi ze-conditioner, ukukwazi ukunika iinwele ezintle kunye nobuqili obuqilileyo kubonakala. Oku kufezekiswa kukuba i-conditioners "iglue" izikali ze-cuticle yeenwele, ezenza ukuba ubuso bubusheleleke (isalathiso sokutshintsha kweenwele ngokubaluleka kakhulu), ngaloo ndlela kuqinisa umbala wokukhanya kunye nokukhanya kwendalo.

Noko ke, akukho miphumo emihle kakhulu emihle yezi mpahla zomoya zomoya. Amaxesha amaninzi ama-shampoos (ngokukodwa okwezinwele ezonakaliswe kakhulu kunye ezikhanyayo) zinzima kakhulu iinwele, zisusa kakhulu umthamo. Ngoko ke, xa udala i-shampoo, i-teknoloji kufuneka ikwazi ukugcina ibhalansi ngqo phakathi kokuhlamba kunye neemeko zesimo. Oku kubalulekile kuba ukwanda ngokugqithiseleyo kwizongezelo zezimo ziphazamisa kakhulu ukuhlamba nokuhlambulula i-shampoo. Kubaluleke kakhulu kunye nokukhethwa kwimoya yomoya. Ngokomzekelo, i-conditioner enamandla kunye neyona ndlela ihamba kakuhle yileoli ye-silicone, eqokelela kakhulu kwizinwele (ukukhumbuza oku kukhanyela kwiingqondo kunye nokukhumbuza abathengi bethu). Ngoko ke, iingcali zanamhlanje zikhetha ukusebenzisa ii-silicones ezikhanyayo (ezivuthayo).

Kubalulekile ukukhumbula ukuba kungakhathaliseki ukuba bomelele yaye lokuzivuselela kwakungekho ishampu, moya ubukho kwezithako akukhethi imfuneko yokusebenzisa i ukupholiswa. Oku kubaluleke ngokukhethekileyo ehluphekile iinwele, imifula kunye olugobileyo lokuvala, ngokunjalo eziphelweni iinwele umbala elide. Khumbula ukuba iindawo ezonakeleyo ibe phezu enkulu nentlawulo elibi, kwaye inyathelo candelo cationic kukuba nje akwanelanga.

Silicones: ukunika ukuthamba iinwele, ukhanye kunye silkiness, ukunciphisa isigxina emile, ukuququzelela combing iinwele emanzi neyomileyo, uphambuke ezintethweni odalekayo kuwo (plus bona ukunciphisa stickiness kwemali wamatye). Silicones bayakwazi ukuba uncamathelise Ulobuza ngokwenza umsebenzi unciphiso. Ngaphezu koko, Yenza umboniso phezu komhlaba kweenwele, ukukhusela nalunwele uchuku kokusingqongileyo nokuba msinga wokhuseleko iipropati.

Iintlobo silicones kunye nefuthe lazo imeko iinwele: 1. dimethicone - oyile abicah. Yiba isenzo lokuzivuselela zomlomo wakhe, oko kudala i ayenechaphothi esimangalisayo nangokuzola, combing kunye nesimbo lula ukwenza Tshisa zokuzikhusela film. Ungahlaziya phantsi ngeenwele zakho. 2. polioldimetikony (copolymers) - amanzi silicones awonayo. Yiba impahla ngobunono lokusasazwa imveliso ngokusebenzisa iinwele ukuphucula wesimeli. 3. silicones aminofunctional (amodimethicone) - ilifa moya okutsha iimpawu, ngokugqibeleleyo sigcina umbala weenwele ezidayiweyo. 4. Encapsulation of silicones - ukunika moya extra yaye kuphucula wesimeli iinwele; 5. dimethicone laurate succinoglycan - abicah zolwelo emmulsiya vysokomolekulchrnogo - anazo okungenisa kunye okungenisa ukusebenza, inikeza, iinwele silky neglu ukwahlula iphela.

Nantsi ke - ABC unonophelo.